An Argument for Being Green
I recently had the opportunity to attend a conference where the actor and well known environmentalist, Ed Begley Jr. spoke to a group of about 500 plumbers, roofers, electricians and HVAC professionals. Ed Begley Jr. is one of my heroes, but I wondered how he might be received by this generally conservative group of small business owners from all over the U.S and Canada.
Mr. Begley’s interest in being green was rooted in the early 70’s when he purchased an all-electric car. Although his model was little more than a golf cart, it perfectly complemented his other modes of transportation; bicycle and public transit. Some of you may recall a television series called “Living with Ed” that chronicled his successes and struggles with becoming green. Mr. Begley was at this Expo as celebrity spokesperson for the A.O. Smith Company, one of the oldest manufacturers of water heaters in the world. A.O. Smith has expanded their energy efficient line of water heaters by integrating the Takagi tankless water heater brand into their line-up as well as some interesting hybrid designs that combine the best of both tank and tankless technologies.
A Single Flame
Mr. Begley’s main argument for environmental was not a plea to save the planet as I had anticipated. Instead, he appealed to the conservative audience on the grounds that his pursuit of environmental friendly solutions for his home were largely based on his desire to save money as an often underemployed actor living in a modest California bungalow. He bragged about his energy efficient A.O. Smith “Vertex” water heater which has given him years of service and is still going strong. He was also very excited that he uses, as he puts it, only “one flame” for both heating and hot water. He explained that hot water from the water heater is pumped across a heat exchanger to give up its heat to the forced air blower of the furnace. By eliminating the furnace’s “burner flame”, he reduced his gas bill dramatically.
Ed Begley Jr. usually pursues simple, common-sense projects that are well within his modest skill-set to perform as a do-it-yourselfer. (I was happy to learn that plumbing is not one of his strengths and relies on professionals for that). For example, he installed a fence that was made out of recycled plastic. Yes, it was more expensive than wood, but it never required painting or any other maintenance. Ed's wife was not pleased with the initial cost, but as the weather took its toll on his neighbors’ fences, the recycled plastic one ultimately proved to be the bargain.
The benefits of being green are three-fold, according to Mr. Begley.
- first, it saves money!
- It reduces our dependence on foreign oil
- It reduces pollution
Now who couldn't get on board with that?
http://www.aosmith.com/About/Detail.aspx?id=188
http://livingwithed.net/
Pressure Leaks (exterior)
Water leaks outside are generally less serious from the standpoint of damage, although they too should be handled swiftly simply because water is a precious commodity. Most exterior water leaks are underground in nature and involve the cold water supply to the home or irrigation lines. It is very common for the main water supply to the house to develop leaks after many decades underground, especially if it galvanized steel.
Example: water is running down sidewalk or there is a small lake in the front yard
Action: If you have determined that it is a water service leak, call a plumber or your water utility provider to shut off the main water supply. Or you can do it yourself.
Result: cold and hot water will slow and eventually stop. This will stop the flow of water to all plumbing fixtures, irrigation and hose bibs.
Tip #1
To determine a main water service leak, go to the water meter and lift the cement cover, then flip up the meter cover to reveal a counter or series of dials. Most modern meters have a red triangle that readily spins when water is flowing through it. Is the triangle spinning? To verify that it is the underground portion of pipe and not something else such as a running faucet or toilet in the house, turn the main house gate valve clockwise, until fully closed or 1/4 turn if it a ball valve. You can verify that the water if off by opening an exterior hose bib; you will no longer have water pressure to it. You have therefore isolated the house piping from the underground water supply piping. If after shutting off the house valve the red triangle at the meter is still spinning, then indeed you have an underground water service leak between the meter and the house valve.
Tip #2
A special tool called a meter key is required to shut off the water supply at the meter. Your plumber or utility provider will have one. A kindly plumber will sometimes let you borrow one. (we have been known to do this). It can also be purchased at your local hardware or plumbing supplier.
If you have decided to shut down the complete water system; you might want to consider filling a bathtub full of water or gallon jugs of water for drinking and flushing of toilets prior to shutting down the system at the meter. Another water conserving strategy is to use the meter key to turn the water off for the evening, turn it on for a short while in the morning to prepare for work and then off again when no one will be home. This can buy you some time to get estimates for repair or replacement of the line, while minimizing usage and inconvenience.
By the way, most utility companies will be lenient in their assessment of fees if you let them know that you are intending to make the repairs in a timely fashion. This is especially important when the only indication of a leak is revealed through an extraordinarily high water bill.
http://www.ebmud.com/for-customers/account-information/water-leaks-and-high-bills
In a future article I will discuss automating the process of leak detection and water shutdown with some pretty nifty electrically operated devices with battery back-ups. In the meantime, stay safe.
Water Leaks
The most common type of plumbing emergency is the water leak. This article will cover domestic (fresh water) cold or hot water leaks under pressure as opposed to drainage (brown or grey water) leaks that flow by gravity. Although all leaks are critical from the standpoint of their potential for damage or from a conservationist perspective, one must evaluate and triage based on the criticalness of the problem. I therefore categorize pressure leaks in two main categories, interior or exterior leaks and will address them in order of importance.
Water Pressure Leaks (interior)
This is potentially one of the most damaging plumbing emergency and must be handled swiftly to minimize property damage. First, try to discover the source of the leak. If the source of the leak is apparent, (such as a supply line leak to a lavatory fixture) your first action will be to turn the shutoff handle clockwise to eliminate the pressure. If you can’t identify the source of the leak perhaps you can determine whether it is a hot or cold leak. This information is important and can give you a back-up plan if the main cold water shut off is not functional and it is a hot water leak. I will try to give you a template for action based on the type of leak.
Water Leak (the source is known)
Example: leaking cold water supply line to kitchen faucet is leaking or washing machine supply hose
Action: turn shutoff handle counter-clockwise to stop flow of water. Open faucet to relieve and drain off pressure. If this does not stem the flow of water in a minute or two, then you must take the next step which is to shut off the house cold or hot water supply.
Result: water will stop flowing, damage is minimized
Water Leak (the source is not known)
Example: constant flow of hot or cold water piping inside of wall or from ceiling.
Action: your first action must be to shut off the house main cold water supply. It is essential for the homeowner to know where his main water shut off valve is located and that it works. Typically, the main water shut-off is at the front of the house directly in line with the water meter.
Result: both and cold and hot water will be de-pressurized and the threat will be reduced.
Alternate Action #1
You can shut off all the water in the house at utility provider’s water main, usually located at the front property line. You will need a special tool called a “meter key” that is slotted to fit into the raised male end of the water service valve. (You can purchase one at a plumbing supply, hardware store or ask your plumber)
Alternate Action #2
If you know that the leak is from a hot water pipe, you may alternatively shut off the incoming cold water valve to the water heater. This action will, in effect shut down the flow of hot water to the home. This has the advantage of allowing you to use the cold water in the house (to flush toilets, etc.) until a repair is made.
I hope that helps. In a future post I will discuss what to do when you discover an exterior water leak under pressure, such a break in the main water service. Until then, stay safe!
Albert
Home Protection 101, Earthquake Valves
Seismic gas shutoff valves
How many times have you wondered if you’re really ready for a big earthquake? We know that the “big one” will occur, but when? This uncertainty is a fact of Bay Area life that we somehow can’t quite get used to. In uncertain times, there is something that we can do to protect our homes and loved ones from fires resulting from an earthquake and the best part is that it works automatically.
Automatic Gas Shut Off Valves
We know that fire from a ruptured or leaking gas line is one of the main devastating consequences of a big quake. As natural gas accumulates in an unvented space, it can be ignited from a spark caused simply by turning on a light switch. Every home in a fault zone should be equipped with an automatic gas shut-off valve, which will interrupt the main gas supply at the PGE meter during a 5.4 magnitude or greater earthquake…automatically.
E.Q. valves have become mandatory when applying for a building permit in Contra Costa County and undoubtedly other jurisdictions will follow. Currently, there are a variety of products on the market that perform this task well, but one of the best is the Little Firefighter which is a simple, well-made device and carries a 30 year manufacturers’ warranty. Whenever feasible, we prefer to install the “optional” stabilizing bracket which will help prevent annoying “false trips”.
Additional Resources
http://littlefirefighter.com